羅馬尼亞舞蹈之旅 Romanian Dance Tours
悠閒地在青葱的山野間游目四顧，在幽雅簡樸的農莊中與熱情的村民共晉晚餐，在資深導師的指導下積極學習舞蹈，在實而不華的文化中心觀賞舞蹈表演，你可有興趣參與集多項精彩活動於一身的另類旅遊？欲體會個中的滋味，歡迎你與我們一起走進羅馬尼亞的舞蹈之旅，分享我們愉快旅程的點點滴滴！
五度奔向羅馬尼亞
在2006年至2010年間，筆者與一眾熱愛舞蹈的朋友，隨美國人發起的羅馬尼亞舞蹈研習團五度奔向羅馬尼亞。吸引我們前往的，不單是美不勝收的山巒景色，不單是純樸親切的民族風情，更重要的是羅馬尼亞是歐洲最能保存傳統文化的國家之一，其舞蹈具有獨特的風格，音樂至為悅耳動聽。由於羅馬尼亞在不同的地域，有不同的民族聚居，而不同的種族，又有其本身的舞蹈特色，所以，我們每一次到訪，都有新的得着、新的驚喜。
充實的民俗舞蹈學習
在前羅馬尼亞國家舞蹈團編舞老師Theodor
Vasilescu、他的太太Lia和現任羅馬尼亞全國編舞家協會主席Marin Barbu帶領下，我們共走訪了北部特蘭西瓦尼亞(Transylvania)高原區、東部摩爾多瓦(Moldova)丘陵區、東南部多布羅加(Dobrogea)丘陵區、南部瓦拉幾亞(Walachia)平原區及西部巴納特(Banat)平原區多個不同的市鎮和村落，每次的行程都各具特色。以十三天的行程為例，學習舞蹈的節數一般都有六至七節，每節約三小時。在Theodor的細意挑選及精心安排下，透過資深老師的講解及示範，我們得以接觸當地最具代表性的民俗舞蹈，學習他們的舞步及風格。為了鞏固我們的學習，Theodor必另擇時間，讓我們可以反覆練習；而在練習的過程中，他會再為我們深入分析、講解舞蹈的動作細節，務求令我們能充分掌握舞蹈的特色。五次的羅馬尼亞之旅，我們學會了超過一百隻民俗舞！
精彩難忘的表演
為了加深我們對各地區的舞步及風格的了解，Theodor每次都為我們安排多場精彩的專場表演。表演會在舞蹈學校、劇院或文化中心舉行，內容包括傳統及民間流行樂曲的演奏、各地域不同的舞蹈及歌唱。為鞏固課堂所學，老師們會把我們在課堂學到的舞步串連起來，以適當的圖形演繹出來；部分編舞老師會在舞蹈員的表演過程中詳細地為我們分析舞步和音樂節奏。他們讓我們透過欣賞表演，深切領略到舞蹈的編排，圖形的變化固然重要，但更重要的仍是要注意舞步和音樂的配合，以及整個舞蹈風格的表現。
在村民的表演中，令我印象最深刻、最別具特色的，要算是他們往往由一個舞蹈員以口哨聲來提示圖形的轉變。我們亦發覺，表演者不論屬職業舞團還是業餘舞團，其舞蹈技巧都同樣出色。他們在台上隨著音樂，踏着整齊純熟的舞步，順應節奏，靈活地變換圖形，他們的全情投入，充分地享受自己的演出，實在令人嘆為觀止！
風土人情的深入體會
不要以為這是刻苦的學習團，其實它是饒富趣味的。我們除了學習及觀賞舞蹈外，還遊覽各地名勝，參觀民俗文化博物館及服裝博物館，購買地道食物和紀念品，並探訪不同的村莊，深入體會民間風貎及其風土人情。
可曾試過用麵包蘸鹽來吃，再喝上一小杯烈酒？幾乎每個村落都會用這種方式來歡迎我們。這種歡迎賓客的儀式只是一個開始，而接下來的往往是多采多姿的節目。穿上民族服裝的樂師和村民會為我們表演舞蹈、歌唱或戲劇，又會和我們一起跳舞，並為我們準備極豐富的地道美食：乳酪薄餅、土豆羊肉、新鮮蔬菜和麵包，更會盛意拳拳地邀請我們到他們家裏參觀及度宿。
羅馬尼亞人是十分友善、熱情好客的民族，縱使他們不太富裕，也會與你分享他們最好的東西。2006年在比霍爾(Bihor)的Borod村莊，村民和我們一起在草地上燒烤，他們把一塊塊豬肉叉在樹枝上烤焙，讓流出來的肉汁滴在麵包上，然後配上肉團、番茄和葱花來吃，極具風味！他們又讓筆者穿上他們用黑色舊車胎造出來的跳舞鞋(opanci)來跳舞，這真是一次前所未有的體驗！日落西山，村民邊跳、邊揮舞着村旗，依依不捨地與我們道別，此情此境，令人永遠難忘！
感謝Theodor、Lia和Marin，他們為我們安排緊湊多姿、食住一流的行程，讓我們在每次旅程結束時，都能夠畫上一個完滿的句號。雖然旅程已不復存在，但我們學到的東西將會伴隨我們一生。真的希望這個網誌能夠令更多人喜歡羅馬尼亞民俗舞蹈！
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Have you ever thought of going on a special tour which consists of dance learning, performance watching, sightseeing and visiting local villages? If you have, welcome to our Romanian tours!
Five Times in Romania
Every June between 2006 and 2010, we joined the Romanian tours organized by the Americans. Apart from beautiful landscape and sincere people, we were attracted to the well-preserved traditional culture, unique dance style and sweet music of Romania. In addition to the various characteristics of different tribes inhabiting in different areas, we gained deeper insight into Romanian folk dancing each time we went there.
Substantial Learning
Headed by Mr Theodor Vasilescu, the former choreographer of the Romanian National Ensemble, Cununa Carpatilor, his wife Lia, and Marin Barbu, president of the Romanian National Choreographer's Association, we visited cities, towns and villages of the Transilvania plateau in the north, Moldova hilly land in the east, Dobrogea hilly land in the southeast, Walachia flatland in the south, and the Banat plain in the west. By and large, there were six to seven dance lessons every time, each lasting for about three hours. Through local teachers’ demonstration, we came to know typical dances of a particular region or area. Theodor also did revision with us during which in-depth analysis and explanation of movements were made to consolidate our learning. We have had a repertory of over one hundred dances those five years.
Brilliant Performances
In order to enhance our understanding of the steps and style of particular areas, Theodor arranged for dance ensembles to perform specially for us. The performances usually took place in dance schools, theatres or cultural centres. Besides dancing, there were solos of singing and musical instruments. Teachers put steps which they had taught us into a dance with suitable patterns. Some of them would analyse the structure of music and its relation to steps during the performances. From what they did, we learned that the most important thing in choreography is not the number of patterns but the matching of steps with music as well as the display of style.
What impressed us most in the performances of villagers was their use of whistling in changing patterns. We also found that the dancers of each dance group, whether professional or amateur, had fantastic technique. They followed the music closely, danced the steps nimbly, changed the patterns skilfully and enjoyed themselves to the fullest. Their gorgeous performances really carried us away.
Local Customs
Maybe you will think that such tours concerning only dancing would be a bit boring. Quite the contrary, they were very interesting. We could visit scenic spots, cultural museums, buy souvenirs and go shopping. We could go to villages to have a better understanding of the life of villagers as well.
Just fancy eating bread with salt and having a small glass of strong drink! We were welcomed this way in most of the villages we visited. This ceremony was just a start. The villagers dressed in their Sunday best would then perform for us: singing, dancing or putting on dramas. They would dance with us and invite us to taste their homemade food: cheese pizza, lamb with potatoes, fresh vegetables, bread, etc. They would even ask us to stay for the night in their houses.
Romanians are very friendly, warm and hospitable. They may not be rich, but would share what they have with you. The experience in Borod Village in 2006 was truly unforgettable. The villagers had a barbecue with us on the lawn. They forked pieces of pork with branches and let gravy drip on the bread. We then ate the bread along with meat balls, tomatoes and garlic. It was a very different meal! One of the villagers even let me try on her opanci, which was made of an old black tyre. It was not easy to dance in such big shoes. I, however, felt very honoured. As the sun set, the villagers kept dancing with us, waving their village flag and bidding goodbye to us reluctantly.
Thanks must be given to Theodor, Lia and Marin. Without their proper arrangements and leading, we would not have had such wonderful trips with tight schedules and first-class board and lodging. We will cherish what we learned as long as we can, and I sincerely hope that this blog will fascinate not only folk dancers but also the rest about Romanian folk dance.
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